I thought I would do a little post about my current skincare routines, especially after damaging my skin so much last year by over-exfoliating click here to see the post

History
Last year I made a stupid mistake to have a contraception hormone injection, the one that lasts 12 weeks depo provera. Within 2 weeks my skin had broken out in an awful way and in a totally new place - my jaw and under it, with the occasional ones sneaking up onto my cheeks, think acne beard and you'll get the gist.  I dutifully saw my derm who insisted on prescribing me with isotretinoin...again! I have had two bad exeperiences with this acne wonder drug and I felt that I didn't want to use it again, if I could avoid it. Plus I knew why I had the acne and felt that isotretinoin was far too strong on my already delicate physical and mental health, so I set about trying to manage it with skincare. Cue the Instagram skincare account.

I joined 1000's of other skincare addicts in the realms of Instagram mostly and dutifully following skincare gurus such as Caroline Hirons Caroline Hirons and Dr Sam Bunting Dr Sam Bunting .This coupled with some relationship issues triggered off a total obsession. When I joined the community I had barely anything and following these other skincare people and seeing all the amazing skin treats they had and learning what they do, well let's just say the buying commenced which I now know is a rite-of-passage to all new skincare accounts. This on it's own is ok but when your buying the things you feel you need and your just using them, with no steady introdcution of the various active ingredients. To start with my skin was amazing but the more I bought and added in, the more my skin reacted until I had cysts instead of just acne bumps.


Then, did I stop, nope! I was so stressed out with what was happening at home I barely gave it much thought except to think I must throw more things at it. My skincare routine was so inconsistent and very quickly became stressful rather that enjoyable. To top this off I massively over-exfoiliated which now I am actually glad happened as it meant I had to stop everything and stick to a very basic routine, giving birth to a better way of caring for my skin.

From all the things I have learned about skincare (tip of iceberg I'm no pro), I did learn that if I were to continue using skincare I must do it in a much more controlled way. The first thing I did was have a think about what actives I would like to use, so my first choice was an antioxidant. 

What is an antioxidant?
Antioxidants protect the skin by limiting the production of free radicals, which can damage skin cells. Antioxidants in skincare products can do a lot for the health and appearance of your skin, including reducing the signs of aging.
Most common antioxidants-

• Vitamin E

• Vitamin C

• Resveratrol

• Retinol

• Green Tea

Hers is an excellent article on each of these and what they do. Antioxidant Article

This is the routine I am using, which started off so carefully and starting one by one so very slowly until I have this lot, and others in the pipeline.

The aim is to use a retinol 3x a week, stronger acids maybe 2x a week, Sunday spa sesh as always in the evenings. In the mornings will be Vitamin C or D and SPF focused.

AM Skincare Routine

Step 1 - Cleanser
My first choice was a good cleanser, and after ignoring my skin needs for ages by using a balm I realised having oily skin like mine I need a good purifying cleanser. Hello Neils Yard Palmarosa range. This cleanser is absolutely gorgeous and its only £16 for 100ml, the smell is gorgeous, It's a clear gel like substance and you need only 1 small pump so I know the bottle will last forever. This for me is a perfect morning cleanser, it cuts all the previous nights sweat, oil and products off without making my face awful and tight. There is no way I would now pay £50 for a purifying cleanser ever again (ok maybe).

Step 2 - Toner
I decided to use a clarifying toner I have by Dr Haushka £22.95 for 100ml, it's another green beauty find and was very kindly gifted to me by the brand. I love how this smells but above all I love what it does, again this is me listening to my skins needs (finally). I find using this toner helps my skin absorb much more of the serums, plus it's clarifying and it's suited to my skin.

Step 3 - Antioxidants
I decided on a Vitamin C serum to use every morning, straight on the skin after cleansing and toning. My choice was Roccoco Botanicals Clarifying C Serum, I adore this it does not break you out or aggravate in any way unlike others, this has now run out so I'm testing NuMeeGlo cruelty free vitamin C gel. This is the first active I introduced back in after a very plain routine for a few weeks.

Step 4 - Hydrate and Moisturise
I have been using a hydrating serum by Roccoco Botanicals called Ceramide Booster, which is the most satisfying hydrating serum I have ever used. It boosts barrier function by enhancing production of ceramides and delivers a powerful hydration boost. I can't easily find the prices or Roccoco Botanicals but I'll provide a link at the bottom as you have to contact them direct for a skin prescription and to purchase.

I then seal everything with Sunday Riley Tidal containing two weights of Hyaluronic Acid for hydration, Papaya Ezyme and White Bird of Paradise extract for brightening. This is the best moisturiser I have ever used, I reckon I could use this alone or over Vitamin C and it would be more than enough (with an SPF over of course) it's £60 from Space Nk. The only downside I have is that I have to apply an SPF over or make sure it's in my make up.

This has been more than enough for my morning routine, I'm tempted to leave out the Ceramide Booster or even add in my Zelens Power D somewhere but I'm adding in things slowly and taking notes of how my skin reacts now. I have tried it a few times but it seems to make my spots itch, yet the rest of my face see's and immediate plumping wow kinda effect, so it's something I may use post retinol at a later date. Please Dr Marko Lens reformulate your three Power A, C and D as a true serum for us acne prone *praying hands and pleading eyes*.

I am also occasionally using Josh Rosebrook Nutrient Day Cream SPF 30, I am worried about the shea butter content however Josh assures me it's acne safe, I will be using this fully when I incorporate a retinol.

PM Skincare Routine
Step 1 - First Cleanse
After a quick swipe with Micellar Water to remove the bulk of my make up, my first cleanse is at the moment and has been for 2 weeks Oskia Renaissance Gel, It's award winning and I can see why. I hated this cleanser at first but now im loving it, the only gripe I have is the addition of coconut oil, for this reason I may not repurchase, please change it Oskia. It's described as a gel, yet applied to dry skin it feels like an oil, ohhhh I love it! it destroys any make up and SPF easily. I give my face a really good lymphatic massage for ages with this, it has great slip not grip as Caroline Hirons would say, yet as soon as you add water to your finger tips it literally emulsifies and just falls away leaving clean and very plumped skin in it's wake. £29.50 for 100ml Space NK, this cleanser lasts forever and I truly love the pump packaging.

Step 2 - Second Cleanse
I have been using Sunday Riley Ceramic Slip Clay Cleanser £35 for 125ml you need one tiny pump, this cleanser foams just a little but doesnt strip my skin. I now understand my skin enough to know my second and morning cleanser needs to be one that cleans my face like this rather than an oill or balm sadly, as much as I love them I end up with more congestion and even blackheads if i dont do this. It has a funny smell like washing up liquid, I can see that this is really only suitable for oily skin as I'm sure it would feel stripping to anybody else. It's also versatile and can be used mixed with any of Sunday's oils or even Good Genes to make a flash facial mask, I'm just not ready for that again yet though. Will I repurchase? I'm pretty sure I will do. Just to add its a runny consistency, almost feels like an egg white serum, it's a very pale brown colour, creamish, not what I expected it to be.

Third Step - Toner I either use Roccoco Botanicals Purifying Essence under £25 for 200ml as a toner but as it's an acid toner I am going easy with these acids it's only maybe 1-2x a week for now and that's all I seem to need since I'm cleaning my face correctly, this is a super gentle acid toner though. It has a spray nozzle on the top which I love as it stops you wasting so much product. It will easily last 3 months and thats with using 2x a day I reckon.


So either followed by Josh Rosebook Hydrating Accelerator £32.50 for 120ml or just using HA alone as a spray hydrate toner. YUM! adore it. It always goes out of stock though so be quick it's from a beautiful world or from Josh direct but watch out for customs charges if your in the UK. It has THE best spray nozzle in my opinion. It's suitable for all skin types but always check the inci list.

Step 4 - Active Serum
So these are my new introductions. Acid serum and or Retinol,  I started using Good Genes by Sunday Riley again last week, after waiting to see how my skin reacted to adding an antioxidant back in, I decided to bite the bullet and try this lactic acid serum. I apply straight to clean, dry skin. Then I wait around an hour to let it settle in. I'm really wanting to expand my acid collection but need to go so carefully with this stage. I have used Lotion p50 before (acid toner from Biologique Recherche) but as it's so potent it truly can wait a while. I'm considering Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic and Retinol over night serum as it's a multi function. I am however on the search for other acid serums and I really wanted to give the Zelens PHA pads a go, but for the price I don't want to risk it, in the past I don't seem to get on with any skincare pads. Good Genes will be upped to 2x a week, and alongside the gentle acid toner 2x a week, for now I need nothing more.

Retinol - This is something I truly want in my routines in the evenings, and after having had a bad experience with prescription retinol I don't feel it needs to be that strong. over the counter has amazing results so why bother putting that level of stress on my skin? The ones I have are Sunday Riley Luna £85 for 30ml Space NK , I have a feeling I won't get on with this as it's an oil, I also have The Ordinary Retinol 2% £8 for 30ml (best value ever) which I have been using on my chest, stomach, hands, feet and legs with Ahmazing results and I mean WOW factor results. So before I splash out on Skinceuticals Retinol these will be my go-to's when I am ready. As I have already learned I will take it very slowly, using a hydrating serum as a buffer to start with before upping my game.

Step 5 - Hydration
Ceramide Booster is what I use right now, as my hydrating layer and I would love to try Jordan Samuels Hydrate $28 for 30ml serum, but I have promised myself to go easy on purchasing for now and use what I have. The Jordan Samuel Hydrate has Hyaluronic Acid and Vitamin C with a few other lovely sounding ingredients so *shrugs* I need it. Maybe I will purchase when I up my retinol game.

Step 6 - Moisturise
Tidal again, I adore this moisturiser. However I prefer this for day use, and I have been using a new product from Roccoco Botanicals named Claire Bears Cream made specifically for me! it's aimed at stubborn acne and cysts and I am currently trialling it, I'm using it as a final even step.

Step 7 - Oil
Now so far I have not done this as I'm already feeling I have enough layers BUT when I do start using retinol and other acids I feel I would like to use either May Lindstrom The Blue Cocoon £128 Cult Beauty or maybe La Belle Lune Organic Skin £48 30ml , I do have lot's of true face oils like Sunday's UFO and Artemis, and I have serum oils like Vintners Daughter and May's The Youth Dew which I much prefer to apply straight after a hydrating serum with no moisturiser.

Additional Step - Masks

• Clays - May Lindstrom The Problem Solver, Omorovicza Deep Cleansing Mask, Dead Sea Mineral Hydrating Clay Mask, Roccoco Botanicals Sulfur Mask.

• Enzyme - Josh Rosebrook Enzyme Exfoliating Mask.

• Hydrating - Josh Rosebrook (the new hydrating one), Dr Jart Hydrating Sheet Mask

I look forward to being able to use my oils again, but for now they are a bare minimum if at all until my skin is under some sort of control I am trying to stick with true serum formulas.


Summary
I am feeling much better about my skincare choices now, more informed and that I understand my skin that little bit more. I still feel I am missing some vital skincare things like more antioxidants and acids, however slow and steady wins the race. This time I'm going slow, gaging and testing as I go. Adding something new in only when and if my skin isn't being reactive and only purchasing items I either do not have, repurchases or replacement items.

Thanks for reading Skincare Secrets
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