Sort my shit skin out phase 1 - Retinoid

PHASE 1 RETINOID

Dr Sam's three part skincare guide in easy to follow 12 week chunks. What to do when acne and wrinkles co-exist

Introduction 
I posted yesterday about finding Dr Sam Buntings three part sorting shit skin out guide. I have been researching all last night and today, really thinking about what products I can use, so I thought I would share my inane ramblings with anyone who cares to listen. I have also bugged the life out of Emma and Natalie (Instagram emmahbeautyuk and roadtoglow) and received lots of lovely advice and suggestions.

Thanks ladies *kisses*

The following bollocks is the insides of my head and my Skincare Plan. I have also noticed that some of us skincare accounts especially with acne don't always manage to stick to set routines, or maybe what worked for us one week suddenly broke us out, or we just got fucking bored and wanted to pile on the skincare treats.

So we can do this together, you don't need acne to join in as Retinoids can work with anti-aging too and this programme is a go-slow and steady like thing, which let's face it we all mostly struggle to pace ourselves, piling ALL the skincare on rather than slow and steady. The first phase is all about Retinoids, starting slowly, and for the acne/blemish brigade using benzyl peroxide, antibiotics or whatever else you have been prescribed or bought.

I for one become very overwhelmed by advice, and it mostly all comes from a good place but advice is all so different, this is mainly from companies and brands, they mean well but it always happens once I'm three weeks into a strict routine and pretty much ready to quit and will believe anything I'm told just so I can use ALL the skincare again. This way we can encourage each other and share tips on anything from skincare to diet and supplements.

The hashtags I have been using is #drsambuntingsway and #skincaresupportclub (I forget which it is) #skincareclub I would LOVE for others to join, we don't need to have started at the same time, maybe your ahead of me, or just considering it, but that's the beauty of Skincare Support Club it's just one skincare addict helping another. It doesn't matter what skin complaint you have as we can look at similarities and not differences. We all have differing financial situations and lifestyles so that will make it so diverse.

The plan is in three chunks the first two being 12 weeks long. The first is Retinoids but we can call it the first skin issue, could be acne, congestion, aging, pigmentation etc but the important thing to remember is that it's concentrated on the first actives (not antioxidants that comes later) maybe its azelaic acid, or even a serum you bought that you wish to see results from by using consistently. The idea is that the first 12 weeks we are looking to get that initial issue under control by using a targeted regime with very simple support products used consistently.

Part 2  Concentrates on  The Secondary Skin Issues - Antioxidants and Microneedling but you could change that up a bit to whatever suits.

Part 3 Concentrates on non invasive treatments like botox, fillers etc not compulsary and you can still do part 1 and 2.

I felt like I should at least research some suitable products to go with this blog post, under no means are these a must, and of course if anybody wishes to join me you can use what you bloody well like whenever you bloody well want to, just aim for consistency. So below are just a few items I found that seem fit for purpose.

Product Recomendations

BHA 1-2% Cleanser
These are so difficult to find. Most have a mixture of acids. - Now I am told that this and the next step is over kill and very difficult to source anyway.  So I will not be using a BHA cleanser just yet, not until my skin settles a bit anyway.

The only BHA cleanser I could find is Eucerin detox I will post a picture, however I have been advised with BHA and BP it would be over kill, this is a very personal choice, if you feel your skin could take it, do both, or buy the BHA cleanser and use it only when your skin adapts and settles on the BP and whatever Retinod you have chosen.

Other Cleanser Options

• Paulas Choice Pore Normalising Cleanser

• Cetaphil Cleanser

• Eucerin DermatoClean (does contain BHA)

• Biologique Recherche Lait U

• Paulas Choice Resist Cream Cleanser for oily skin

Note - I will be using Serozinc Spray by La Roche Posay (under £8) after my cleansing stage. You could also use IS Clinical Copper Spray or NIOD CAIS or non at all.

Benzyl Peroxide 2.5% for AM usage

• Benzyl Peroxide 2.5% Topical Solution Duac prescribed from the Dr it's 2.5 BP and antibiotic

You can go into any chemist to ask about leave on BP products but don't go over 2.5%

Non comodogenic Moisturiser to preserve barrier function

•  Obagi Hydrate

• Roche Posay Toleraine Riche

• Cetaphil Moisturising Cream - under £10 from a chemist in the UK but you can also get it prescribed from the DR or Dermatologist.

• Cerave Facial Moisturising Lotion Chock ful of ceramides, Niacinamide, Cholesterol & Hyaluronic Acid. It sounds perfect and IG roadtoglow Natalie has just purchased this, it's cheap and look at those bloody ingredients. My only concern is that it could be a pore blocker.

• Neutrogena Oil-Free Moisturiser

Retinoid
There are SO many to choose from, so go skin suitable. A good rule of thumb is if you have 10-15 acne lesions then go medical, I suggest booking a trip to your DR and ask to be prescribed Differin, Isotrex or Tretinoin (gold star one you lucky USA based ones).

If you haven't used a retinoid before then there are lots of over-the-counter ones available with varying price points with varying formulations for skin types and strengths.

• Sunday Riley Luna  - dry oil based, it's pricey and I don't love it, but others rave about it.

• La Roche Posay - recommended by Dr Sam and I believe it's called Redermic

• Medik8

• Skinceuticals comes in three strengths 0.3 0.5 and 1% start small if you are new, but you will have to purchase the other ones as the lowest dose is just a starting point to get the skin settled, personally I would just go in at 1% *insert approapriate emoji*

• Obagi

• Indeed Labs (gentle)

• REN

• Murad

• The Ordinary 2% (gentle) The Ordinary 1% -  I believe the 1% is actually stronger due to the formulation and differing types of retinoid, I think one is retinOID and one is retinOL

• Paulas Choice has a variety

• Dermaolgica (it comes with a buffer serum)

Many options....google is your friend, this is so important that you get this in the correct formulation. Dr Sam say's NO OILS when treating acne, so if your doing this for acne rather than antiaging use a lotion type formula.

SPF 30+
Please DO NOT skip this step, it will undo the retinol work, in fact it can cause accelerated aging. SPF's are a very personal thing we all like different things. Your looking for a plain SPF no antioxidants or added goodies.

You can use a moisturising SPF and skip the moisturiser but Dr Sam recommends using both.

• Obagi

• La Roche Posay

• Paulas Choice

• IS Clinical

• Dermalogica

• Murad

• Vichy

• Heliocare

• Cerave AM

• Skin Medica

• Medik8

Thers are so many SPF's all for different skins and preferences. The above have a lot of different choices of SPF and I cannot reccomend a specific one, just that you use one daily and 30 minutes proir to leaving the house.

Phase 1 Routine

Morning - Cleanse, Spray (optional), Benzyl Peroxide (I will be using Duac and I will not be using a BHA cleanser until my skin is settled), Moisturiser and SPF, don't forget your SPF must go over your eyes and ears taking care not to get in the eye itself.

Evening - Cleanse, Spray, Retinol - do not use retinoid every night, it must be started slowly every third PM 30 minutes after cleansing. Slowly moving up to every other night. You can even start once a week, if you find it a struggle and your skin is sore you can use a buffer serum or moisturise first then wait 30 minutes, or use a lesser amount (end of finger tip is the usual amount see Dr Sams recent PM routine youtube video). Stop for a few days if it becomes unbearable, and always avoid the sensitive eye and lip area, you can protect them first with eye or lip cream or even your moisturiser. On the eveings NOT using retinod just basic cleanse, spray and moisturise.

Another easy way is to get Epiduo prescribed it's adapalene 0.1% (a form of retinoid and Benzyl Peroxide 2.5%) and just use it in the evenings and no BP in the mornings, but build your way up to every other night slowly. Just Cleanse, Spray (optional) moisturise and SPF in the mornings. Personally I am starting with BP in the mornings and Retinod PM's.

You could also use Obagi systems 1 & 2 in place of steps 1 and 2 in this three part series.
There are lots of ways to adapt this to suit you, as long as you follow the Retinoid focus in the first 12 weeks with antioxidants and microneedling in the second part and find your own set of support products.

AM Skincare Routine (current)

This is my using what I have routine, it will be changing as I implement items as it's not suitable really. It's just whatever I could grab together that will do for now.

Cleanse  Eucerin Dermatoclean, Biologique Recherche Lait U, or Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel, Dermalogica Clay Cleanser or samples of Dermalogica Ultra Calming Cleansing Gel.

Spray  Serozinc La Roche Posay.

Serum  I used Zelens D today.

Moisturise  Cetaphil (don't shoot me Hirons) Ceramide Booster from a brand I don't mention any more, Tidal by Sunday Riley, Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream, Zelens Z Matrix- the last three are to use up and I may use Dr Hashka Day Cream but some of these do have oils in, I am using what I have at the moment.

SPF I have some random Dermaolgica sachets and La Roche Posay, I do have Murad but it has antioxidant in too so thats a no-no! check ingredients.

 My shit that's semi-suitable until replacements arrive!

PM Skincare Routine (current)

Remove make up Garnier Pure Active Micellar Water for combo, sensitive and/or oily skin.

First Cleanse Dermaolgica Special Cleansing Gel or Dermal Clay Cleanser.

Second Cleanse Eucerin DermatoClean or Biologique Recherche Lait U

Spray (toner) La Roche Posay Serozinc

Serum for the moment I will be using Epiduo which is a combo of adapalene 0.1% (form of retinoid) and Benzyl Peroxide 2.5% and nothing in the morning in this stage)

Moisturiser Cetaphil, Zelens 3t, Sunday Riley Tidal, Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream or a ceramide booster.



Below is my ideal skincare routine and what I am working towards

AM Skincare Routine
This is what I will be moving towards when I am able to purchase some items.

Cleanse Ultra Calming Cleansing Gel Dermalogica, Eucerin DermatoClean, Paulas Choice Pore Normalising Gel Cleanser (antibacterial properties) and Eucerin Detox with BHA when my skin settles. It will depend on how my skin feels as to whether I use gel or a cream cleanser in the mornings. *edited to add I am purchasing CeraVe SA Renewing Cleanser for the mornings.*

Spray La Roche Posay Serozinc, Niod CAIS and IS Clinical Copper Mist (sticking with Serozinc for now).

Serum Duac Benzyl Peroxide 2.5% from the doctors

Moisturiser this will depend on my skin state, Cetaphil for when I start using DUAC. I may use an SPF/Moisturising combo. This doesn't need to be a luxury item it just needs to function however ceramides would be a huge bonus, so I'm searching for a no-fuss relatively cheap day time moisturiser or combo. *Edited to add I am purchasing CeraVe AM Cleanser which is also SPF perfect multi-product and cuts out a layer.*

SPF I do not know! truly no idea. As my skin will be drying out I might just stick with the La Roche Posay Anthelios XL 50+ I don't know if its a full spectrum one. Obagi Sun Shield also looks good. But so does Cerave AM Moisturiser. (sticking with CeraVe for now but I do like the Dermalogica ones).


Evening Skincare Routine

Make up removal Garnier Micellar Water Pure Active for oily skin

First Cleanse my first cleanse will be a gel one, either Dermalogica ultra calming cleanser, or a Paulas Choice Pore Normalising. *Edited to add decided to purchase CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser for my first cleanse.*

Second Cleanse I am aiming to use a milk/cream cleanser purely for the comfort -Paulas Choice Resist for oily skin Cream Cleanser or Eucerin DermatoClean Cream Cleansing Milk. *Edited to add I have decided on the CeraVe SA Renewing Cleanser for a second and morning cleanse*)

Serum every third night Differin or Tretinoin (or whatever retinoid) applied 30 minutes after cleansing on dry skin, avoiding the eye and lip area, using a very small amount on each facial area (forehead, cheeks and chin) ensuring to cover the whole facial area.

Serum on non retinoid nights You can skip this and just moisturise but I will focus on barrier repair and hydrating my skin. I will be using Ceramide Booster, Jordan Samuel Hydrate Serum, Indeed Labs Hydraulron Jelly or Serum, Niod Multi Moleculor Hyaluronic Complex or Dermalogica Hydrate Booster, Paulas Choice Hydrating Booster, Dermalogica Soothing Booster.

Moisturiser CeraVe PM, Cetaphil, Zelens 3t, Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream (simple to start but I also have some items I wish to use up, over the next few weeks is the perfect time. (*edited to add I am going to purchase the CeraVe PM moisturiser as it's full of mega ingredients*).

So basically I will need to go skincare shopping, again. *sigh* *does happy dance*

Shopping for skincare....

Shopping List
Paulas Choice Pore Perfecting Cleanser
Paulas Choice Resist Cleanser for oily skin
Eucerin DermatoClean and Detox
Dermaologica Ultra Calming Cleanser
NIOD CAIS
IS Clinical Copper Mist
Serozinc La Roche Posay
Day time bland moisturiser such as Cetaphil, Neutrogena Oil-Free or CeraVe
SPF - no fuss, no antioxidants or other ingredients
Jordan Samuel Hydrate or other hydrating serums (NIOD, Dermaolgica or Paulas Choice Hydration Booster)
CeraVe PM Moisturiser
DUAC and Retinoid (prescribed)

EDITED
I wanted to add that I have decided on CeraVe as a brand to try and to stick with during the first 12 weeks at the least as long as I have no shitty side effects.
So...
Updated shopping list...
CeraVe SA Renewing Cleanser
CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser
CeraVe AM Moisturiser it's also an SPF
CeraVe PM Moisturiser
Acnecide 5%
Avene Triacneal expert
La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo+

These sound so so good, the ingredients sound fantastic, and they are so inexpensive.

Dr Sam Buntings Recommends 
Cleansers
La Roche Posay Physiological Gel (discontinued wahhh)
La Roche Posay Effaclar H Mousse
Avene Gentle Gel Cleanser
Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser - this isn't great at make up removing though
Obagi Cleansiderm 2% Salicyclic Acid

AM Treatments
Acnecide 5% BP
Obagi Cleansiderm 5% BP
if BP irritates...
Glotheraputics 10% azelaic acid and niacinamide (helps produce ceramides too)
Medik8 Beta-gel (azelaic acid, niacinamide and salicyclic acid)
La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo+ (perfect for inflammed acne) salicyclic acid and niacinamide

PM Treatments
Avene Triacneal - contains diolenyl (antibacterial and anti-inflammatory) x-pressin (exfoliating enzyme), retinaldehyde (vitamin a retinoid)
Medik8 Retinol
 La Roche Posay RedermicR

If your still about, well done haha if you fell asleep WAKE UP.


I bet there are many thinking "OMG I told her this ages ago" or "FFS she never sticks to anything, she's no chance"....see gif below, your welcome. 

Thanks for reading.
Please feel free to ask me questions, join in, suggest changes, give me your imput - it is most welcome.